Sunday, 29 January 2012

Further progress.

I actually did this on Friday, but didn't want to post it all at once.

Friday I drafted the train for the robe. I just folded my fabric in half and I knew the widest point of the train would be the width of the fabric, so after drawing  a slanted line (the length of which was the length of the back seam on the dress) I then drew another slanted line to make it longer, I later curved the edges to make it prettier.

It came out looking really great.  Below is the train pinned to the back of the robe, as well as the sleeves (also pinned).

Here is the top of the back train sewn in into the back seam. There is a little pleat in there for added effect/ volume management. My flash really lit up the fabric, and so it looks much more shiny then it really is, however it does show the black on black pattern really well.

The sleeves, now sewn in. Probably some of the weirdest sleeves to draft for me to date. I'm sure that will change someday.  They worked out great but came with a small problem:  The black fabric has a tiny bit of stretch to it and the purple taffeta lining does not.  So we noticed that it bagged down at the bottom, which looked awful.

We were able to remove the bagging by pinning small darts/seams. Thankfully there is a seam there already, so it's not going to be a major hassle to fix. It does however, involve me having to unpick the sleeves from the dress to get at the inside to alter it.

And here is the back of the dress in all it's glory.  I'm going to attach a small loop at the end of the train so the model/owner to be can slip it over her wrist for easier movement.

Next steps:  Fix the bagging in the sleeves, sew and attach the collar, bind the front/ put in a zipper and finally hem it.

Saturday, 28 January 2012

13th fairy production shots.

Oh what could this pile or Organza be?
The organza is for the coloured vents in the front of the 1th fairy's dress.  The vents are 4 layers of two coloured Organza, a blue/purple and a red/green.  One layered over the other. The effect is great, it almost looks lit from underneath. (My flash really did a number on the colours, the one underneath is in fact the dark red/green. not orange).

Pile of organza, meet black fabric.  I pinned the triangle to one side and sewed it up, which gave me one straight line to sew, and then pinned it to the other side, it makes the top a nice sharp point instead of a rounded one.  It's actually all sewn in here, the pins are there to hold my fabric down for the next step :top stitching.

The finished vent, now top-stitched down ( have a weird compulsion to top-stitch everything) and ironed. In this case I figured it would look better and contain the seam allowances on the inside (by top-stitching) so they didn't flip over and show through the Organza.  It also helped weight the organza down a tiny bit so it wouldn't poof out.

No, you didn't see me bunch this all into a pile and leave it like that over night, carry on. :)

The side vent!  I am adding a train in this rose patterned cut velvet-y fabric in the back, but I didn't want it to just be there and no where else, so instead of organza in the side back vent, I put a vent of the rose fabric, the back of the high collar will also be out of this, you can just barely see it behind the purple fabric hanging from my board.

An almost dress!  Here is the dress on a Judy, it's waiting for its train to me made and the sleeves to be sewn and attached.  But we will save that for a different day!

Have a great weekend everyone.

Monday, 23 January 2012

Mock up fitting

I had another model in today for a fitting!  This time it's just the after shots, seeing as the previous post had the process of shots.  This time, the pictures are just quick ones I took with my digital camera (a Cannon power shot A560)  while I was working

So after you pin the mock up and fit it, you are left with a wonderful and attractive muslin sack with lines drawn on it.

In this first image it shows the concept sketch, fabric swatches and the new drawn on neckline for the dress.

 Similar to the first image, only longer.

The pins and lines drawn on so I know where to take it in on the upper bust.

I'm going to have to take in the upper bust and I am lowering the armhole a bit, just for comfort.  Also showing my pin lines for the under bust area I need to take in.

The  new back collar lines. On the final product, the back will be closed and a zipper will be hidden in a side seam.

Lines marking the highest and lowest points for the skirts hem.  I'll be drawing the shape in after I shorten my pattern.

Fitting notes.  Always take notes after/during a fitting so you can remember what you need to change.

Close up of my exciting fitting notes.

Model fitting

I have a model fitting this afternoon between  2:30 and  3pm!

Edit: Now it's Noonish :D

Thursday, 19 January 2012

Model fitting round one FIGHT

I had my model Laina in for a fitting this past weekend and Larry over at Point of Light Productions  took some wonderful shots of me fitting her into a mock up for her corset.

 The mock up is made of Duck  fabric instead of muslin. Duck is a stiffer fabric that will stand up  by it's self better.  A corset mock up has to be tight as possible for it to function well, but it also needs to be comfortable enough the wearer can breathe and sit.

Pinning her in. 

Making sure her chest is contained and will not fall out of the corset.

Adding more shape to the garment.

My Model is rather ticklish.

Marking the pins I pinned her in with, so I won't loose my lines.

Stop in the name of love?  No, marking the bone casings (or channels) for the steel bones that go into a corset, very important,  since without them a corset is just a really tight shirt.

I've either said something witty, or I'm tickling her again.  Still marking bone casings.

Moving on to a collar/choker that goes with the costume. Obviously this was way to wide for her neck.  However, it allowed me to draw on the new more logical lines.

Setting her free.

The next step, is to go back to my paper pattern and mark any changes I made when pinning her.  From there its a matter of cutting out the 4 layers of fabric that go into a corset to make it stiff.  Your outer layer is basted to a layer of flannel and then 2 layers of ticking (very stiff but thin cotton) are "laminated" together after you mark the bone casings (or channels).  Laminating in this case is not covering it in a plastic coating, like you would an ID card, but sewing row upon row of stitches about 1/2cm apart.

This step will have to wait a bit however, as yesterday I cut out the fabric for the Dark Faerie costume and today, after a good ironing (where needed), I started sewing it together.

Expect more photos soon!

Sunday, 15 January 2012

Further Progress

I was in at the school yesterday doing a fitting for one of my models.  Expect some new photos soon!

End of term

Goodness, I kinda dropped off the face of the earth for a month or two there.  I have a very good reason why, it was the end of term and then Christmas break.

 End of term resulted in a great deal of me looking like this:

 Yup. A whole lot of pattern drafting was going on.

I was working on  converting a basic block (foundation for most tops/dresses) to a Princess seam for one of my models, when Point of Light Productions  came and took  all these great production shots for me.

I have gotten a ton of work done on the various costumes for the fashion show, which now FINALLY has a name.  The graduating class decided on it this past week, its going to be called "Designed to the nines".

I should be cutting into actual fabric soon! I'm so excited!  I have so much to get done before April 21st. Which seems like a really long ways away, but no it is not.