Thursday, 19 April 2012

A girl from Colorado country.

I apologize right now if this makes little sense or is not well written. The fashion show everything is to be made for is on Saturday and I am more then a little brain dead from all the work  and hours I've put in this week.

The good news is, everything is done!  Just a couple little add-ons here and there (Wendy's hat and gluing the wings for  the cosmic warrior), so on to the photos!

Wendy's coat

Step one: Buy fabric that is at least 80% wool, which I did not :D I bought a cashmere wool suiting. It's like felt and wonderful to work with, however it dosn't shrink as much into shape when you steam it as an 80% wool would.
Here is how it started! The patterns laid out on the fabric with the seam allowances added in.

Then I cut out everything in the outer fabric, then in the lining and then in the interfacing.

And then I interfaced EVERYTHING.  You need a nice stiff interfacing (preferably an iron on) that will stay stuck to your fabric. You find that out by cutting samples of various interfacing weights and sticking them to the fabric.  Once that is done, you pull, twist, tug and peel the fabric (basically maul it and take your aggression's out upon it). Whichever interfacing stays stuck after that, is the one you want.

You interface all of the Front pieces, and then the rest tend to only be interfaced at the hems and up top by the neckline or shoulder area.  You also put some pre-shrunk ribbon around the arm and neck holes to keep them from stretching out.  Below is my front pieces all sewn and interfaced, along with the pocket bag for the front pockets.

Speaking of pockets, here is what they look like on the outside. The pocket flap echos the shape of the collar of the coat.

The coat,(almost all together) resting on a judy.  I've attached the collar, the front facing and front lining at this point.

My sleeves with the lining attached, are shown here awaiting attachment to the actual coat.

But not before I attach the shoulder pads.  Which involves a great deal of basting, both  permanent  and non-permanent. 

Below is some of the permanent basting,  the shoulder pad gets basted to the interfacing and to the seam allowances of the shoulder seams.

And basted on with a temporary  slanted stitch on the outside.  This is just to hold the shoulder pad in place while you sew in the sleeve.

With both shoulder pads now attached, time to attach the sleeves!

To attach the sleeve I first pin it on to the coat while it's on a Judy and then, once pinned, flip it inside out and transfer my pins to the inside and baste it onto the body of the coat.  After that, I sewed in a piece of flannel called a head roll, which makes the sleeve cap roll over nicely at the arm hole.

Alas I have no more pictures of the progress!  But all that was left was to attach the sleeve lining, hem the bottom of the coat and sleeves, attach buttons and make button holes.

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